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Separate your new batteries into two groups. Arrange them the same way as the old pack, in series. To make sure you have the polarity right, you can check the groove on the end of each NiCD cell that indicates the positive end, look at the +/- markings on the outside of the pack enclosure, or check the old pack with a voltmeter. If your cells have short tabs like mine, you'll need to splice them together with a small piece of wire. Once you have them connected in the right order, solder the tabs together and check the total voltage to make sure everything conducts.

How To Install Neat Software Without Cd. After they're soldered, wrap some tape around each pack to hold them together and cut off the bottom tabs. Step 4: Assemble and Test the Pack. I had the same issue with the 855-02 pack.

Just insert a thin screwdriver at the point between the blue and black plastic directly above the thumb piece and push. You will notice the thumb piece moves in and pull up while you do this. Push in the two tabs to the right and left of it with a combo of pushing and twisting the screwdriver and then repeat on the opposite side. Now I just need to figure out where to get these replacement cells on the cheap.

These are the cells in the 855-02: http://samsungsdi.com/battery/cylindrical-INR18650-13P.jsp. Salt N Pepa Very Necessary Rar Files here. Having worked for a couple years at a battery store where we rebuild packs like this frequently most people who let any rechargeable battery regardless of chemistry sit for longer than a year wind up with either a severely weakened pack or one that's just totally dead. Most people don't realize that more or less all rechargable batteries self-discharge when they're left unused, so even if it was fully charged when you put it away at 1-2% self-discharge per day most batteries will be run down a half year later, and when it's sitting around dead for months later it's not likely to come back too well when you do try to charge it again. TL:DR - top-up rechargable batteries up every 2-3 months even when you're not using them. We use a Cadex to test rebuilds where I work and it can also refresh and cycle packs.

I've had a couple of my personal drill batteries that I thought were totally shot and started out dead shorted which came back up to 94ish% capacity. That said the packs were otherwise well taken care of and still should have otherwise been expected to be in their usable life. A lot of people hear about this sort of thing and assume it's a sure-thing or a magic for their old battery packs. This is unfortunately not so. If they're really old and/or leaking or something there's a chance, and generally nicads hold up to more abuse than any other major chemistry.

Just to note: soldering to non-tabbed cells isn't a great idea. You have to really get the whole end of the battery way hotter than it's made to get before solder will stick directly to the battery.

Under the positive end there's a small spring controlled pressure valved that keeps the cell from exploding if it's overcharged or leaking it's guts. If you're dealing with something that's hard to get a battery for and just want to see if you can get it going that's not the worst thing in the world and NiCd and NiMH batteries can take enough abuse that soldering right to them won't outright kill them, but it's not really good for them either. Most battery stores and cordless tool repair and service shops will weld tabs on your cells or rebuild packs like this pretty reasonably too. Soldering to tabbed cells is A-OK too.